Showing posts with label Art vs Craft. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Art vs Craft. Show all posts

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Thread Sketches - Exploration of Universal Symbols through Machine Embroidery

Fiber has becomes an important part of my art recently.

It has opened a new world of art making with a meditative and repetitive process that keeps my hands busy making while my mind is off somewhere else.

Here is the short story of how I got to this point. Read on and be inspired!

Over the summer, I started to intuitively knit sculpture using a loom while the San Diego heat blazed on. It was a savior for me to be able to make something when it was too hot to turn on my encaustic wax.

Every time I would heat up my encaustic wax outside, I questioned my sanity! You don't want to know how miserable I was during this heat. All I wanted to do was make something that didn't require a heat gun.


Knit, knit, knit. I made odd shapes in soft, blood red yarn. They looked like shirt sleeves that morphed into pig organs. But they were fun to make.

So next semester, I enrolled in a Fibers class at San Diego State University which worked with my schedule, which was Fiber Surface Design. Can you imagine my surprise when this class expanded my view of art completely?

Since I have been studying "fine art" at SDSU, I was ignorant of a whole world of contemporary art which is normally shoved under the category of Craft.

My instructor, Kathryn Harris, is an amazing and has opened my eyes to a world where art and craft not only tolerate each other, but actually work together to create art that is unique. Thrilling, right?


So I have a new body of work that is fiber without encaustic wax that I am not sure where it fits into my portfolio. But it is so exciting, I have to share it with you! Here we go...
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Thread Sketches - Exploration of Universal Symbols through Machine Embroidery

Machine embroidery is new to me.

Two months ago, I learned how to hand embroider in Kathryn Harris' Fiber Surface Design class and I love it. It is slow and repetitive. It can be painstakingly exact and rigid.

But it can also be fluid and intuitive. I have replaced my pencil and paper with needle and thread.

So when we moved from the hand to the sewing machine, I was not excited. Why would I want a machine to do the work for me? Because a machine can do what I cannot.

What is free-motion machine embroidery? It is embroidery that can be done with a sewing machine that uses a foot that allows you to move the fabric all around instead of just front to back.

Check out this quick, un-intimidating video by author Rice Freeman Zachery which shows free-motion machine embroidery as an easy way to add decoration.



Free-motion embroidery on a sewing machine is just another tool for expression.

I took scraps of fabric and using the free-motion embroidery foot on the sewing machine, drew on the fabric the universal vagina symbol. I made some more.

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on fabric scraps, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

The top thread and the bobbin thread are different which makes the front and the back of the piece look different. I love the duality.

"Thread Sketches" Back, Machine Embroidery on fabric scraps, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

White on black. Black on white. White and gray on black. White and gray on white. Black and gray on black. Black on black. The possibilities with only three hues...

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on fabric scraps, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on fabric scraps and vellum, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on fabric scraps, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly


"Thread Sketches" Back, Machine Embroidery on fabric scraps, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly



I hung them on the wall with pins like my fiber and encaustic sculptures "Fibrous Waximus". Still wasn't sure what to do with them. So made some more.

I made some thread lace using Solvy which is a water soluble plastic wrap. You take one piece of solvy, put some threads on top, then another piece of solvy on top of that. Then you sew through all layers. Rinse the solvy off of the piece and all that remains is the thread.

"Thread Sketches" Front, Thread Lace, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

After showing them to Kathryn, she suggested I try machine embroidery on Solvy. That opened even MORE possibilities.

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly


"Thread Sketches" Back, Machine Embroidery, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

After doing research on Ana Mendieta for my Contemporary Latin American Art class, I was inspired by her Silueta series.

Ana Mendieta Silueta Series

I made a small homage in machine embroidery to compliment her large scale outlines of the human body.

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery with leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

I embedded a small leave in the belly of the figure to hint at the natural world.

"Thread Sketches" Back, Machine Embroidery with leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

I made another...

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery with leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

"Thread Sketches" Back, Machine Embroidery with leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

Inspired by these, I decided to further my homage to Ana Mendieta by doing machine embroidery on actual leaves.

Mendieta did drawings by piercing on green leaves of universal and feminine symbols. She embraced the changes in the leaves from green to brown.

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

"Thread Sketches" Back, Machine Embroidery on leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

These have already changed colors, and curled since I first made them on Saturday, and when I scanned them on Sunday. How do you think they will change?

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

See those gray spots on the left side in between the stitches? Those were not there on Saturday when the leaf was fresh and full of juices.


"Thread Sketches" Back, Machine Embroidery on leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly

"Thread Sketches" Front, Machine Embroidery on leaf, © 2010 Jaime Lyerly


So what did we learn from this experiment?

  • Art or Craft? Both? Either way, it is a new way to work
  • Machine Embroidery is easy to do
  • Thread lace and solvy are more tools to use
  • You can bend and break the rules of what is fiber
  • Inspiration comes from many sources
  • and for me...Not everything in my artist portfolio NEEDS to be covered in encaustic wax!
I titled these "Thread Sketches" because that is really what they are. A sketch without paper and pencil, and a new way to work.

Your Turn:

I would love to hear what you think! Experienced in the ways of the sewing machine? I bow to your expertise. Always wanted to try free-motion embroidery? Let me know if this helps you to get started.

Happy sketching! ~ Jaime Lyerly

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Redefining Craft - My Essay on a Lecture by Janet Koplos

Pablo Picasso, found object assemblage

As I finish up the last hectic weeks of the semester, I am trying to find some time and energy to blog, make art and relax. Since none of that has happened recently, guess what, I got a cold. When you are running at full force for as long as I have, it is hard to remember that my immune system cannot keep up. Nevertheless, I am here and ready to share what is the most creative non-fiction that I have written in a while - an essay based on a lecture.

In October 26, 2009, Janet Koplos, Guest Editor at American Craft magazine and Contributing Editor at Art in America was a brought in by the San Diego State Art: Applied Design Department as a guest lecturer. It was wonderful, and I hoped to write about it right afterword. However, life gets in the way of my best intentions, but as luck would have it, I needed to do a write up of one of the lectures that I attended this semester for my Woodworking class. So better late than never!

I believe that this essay can stand on its own without seeing the slide show or hearing the lecture. The topic of CRAFT vs. ART is fascinating and one that every artist will face many times in their life. I hope this essay will stimulate you to comment or just contemplate how this battle of words affects you as an artist.

Redefining Craft by Jaime Lyerly, 2009

Craft. The word by itself brings up images of Styrofoam balls covered in sequins, pompoms and lots of glitter. There are Michaels’ stores, which have “arts and crafts” listed in their title. If you go to there craft section, the above materials will be found, along with colored foam, fuzzy pipe cleaners, googley eyes and assorted other little trinkets that had no where else to be stored. It is a sad day for the word, craft, when its definition is limited to what can be found on the aisle of Michaels. Janet Koplos, Guest Editor at American Craft magazine, Contributing Editor at Art in America, and co-author of upcoming book Makers: A History of American Studio Craft, written with Bruce Metcalf, wants you to look past the initial response to the word, craft, and see that it is no different than the word art. Koplos’ has a unique position as the editor of two different magazines and her role is to help redefine craft. Also by authoring a book specifically on crafts, her role becomes one not just of editor but also one of the defining voices in an area where there appears to be lacking a solid and academic representation. In her SDSU Visiting Artist Lecture on October 26, 2009 entitled "A View of the Maelstrom," Koplos showed a history of art and craft via slides, and defined three main points: questioning our need to separate craft from art; the need for a visual vocabulary specified to the craft being critiqued, and a shift in mentality from craft-exclusive to “craft-proud.”

Through slide examples, Koplos shows how the histories of art and craft have not always been separated as they are today. From the ancient Etruscan pottery to Picasso’s work in clay, found objects and metals, craft has been a part of art making since its inception. Craft is now defined by the art community as use of particular materials such as fiber, wood, jewelry, clay, book and paper-making. However, in these days of mixed media, how can craft be separated from art? Is it function that makes it craft instead of art? It is the intent of the creator? Is it manufacturing techniques? Is it material use only? Is it concept? When does a work stop being craft and become art? When does it go the opposite direction and start as art but then become craft? These questions were not answered by the Koplos, but they loom overhead during the lecture for the listener to answer themselves. By showing art that can be defined as art or craft, Koplos asks us to question why we need to categorize it all. This separation makes the artist have to choose one category to stand firmly in, instead of letting the art establish its own genre and intention.

Another key point of Koplos’ lecture was the need for critics and people reviewing craft-related objects to have their own visual vocabulary to describe the work. For example, according to Koplos, tapestries need address a different set of questions than a painting. Although both a tapestry and a painting may be wall hanging and relatively two-dimensional, they need to be critiqued by a reviewer who is familiar with the materials being used. Someone who is familiar with the applications and limitations of acrylic paint may not have the same qualifications when faced with a tapestry. Each material has its own benefits and limitations which cannot be ignored when critiquing the artist’s work. Koplos advised that we need critics who are willing to educate themselves on craft related materials, so that they can best describe the materials in front of them. By placing painting expectations on a tapestry, we are limiting how the creator can interact with their audience, and ignoring the history of fibers from which this tapestry can ultimately be judged. Taking down the walls between art and craft does not mean ignoring the history of the materials used and the objects relationships with those materials. We need a shift in mentality about art identified as craft, which leads final point in the lecture.

Koplos described in her lecture an artist who was advised by a gallery to delete all references to craft in her Curriculum Vitae. She continues on that this artist was able to project a craft-free image and therefore to get into more exclusive art galleries. Koplos believe that this cleansing of the Curriculum Vitae to remove all traces of the word craft is harming to artists who do not see fit to do so. She finished the lecture by showing some screenshots of the newest movement in the craft world – the DIY or Do-it-Yourself crafters. Websites such as Etsy.com gives people a way to make handmade, one of a kind items and sell them to others over the web. It is the eBay of crafts. Koplos said that the people selling on Etsy.com are “craft-proud” and that is the attitude that fine artists working in craft related mediums should adopt. She does point out that the quality on Etsy.com varies tremendously, since anyone can post and sell items without any formal training or quality control. However the attitude of proudly proclaiming your craft is one of inclusiveness, and is a welcome change from the exclusivity of the art world.

In conclusion, Koplos’ lecture was a fascinating look into a world in which I was only barely familiar. Her slides included many works that I would categorize as craft, such as functional ceramic bowls and works that I would never even consider in that category such as Kiki Smith’s figures or Tara Donovan's swell of white cups. To question what is art and what is craft is inviting exclusivity that is neither necessary nor wanted. Magazines such as American Craft and Niche provide a place for artists to show items that proudly pronounce their craft materials to the world. Can they be art too? Of course, if the creator so deems it. Koplos’ point about needing critics who are willing to look past the word craft and actually learn about the specific materials that are included in that broad title rang true to me. Since I love writing about are as much as I love looking at it, I see this as a call to action. I believe that there is a niche that can be filled by a new generation of art critics who will be inclusive with their writing and they will help redefine the word, craft - one article at a time.

Feel moved to comment? Please do! I am not sure how the format of a typical 5 paragraph essay works for blog readers, but I am trying out something new here. Academic writing is part of my life as a student, so I thought it was time to share. Maybe next time you will only get an excerpt. Now back to my regular scheduled hectic life!

Happy Art (or Craft) Making. Be Craft Proud!

Jaime Lyerly